From:
"Richard Marshall" <richard.marshall@talktalk.net>
Date: 27 February 2011 18:53:18 GMT
To: <wt@southwest-environmental.co.uk>
Subject: more trekka info
Hello (again)
Not sure if your still interested in Trekka hints n tips, but here is another
couple which might save people a few hours.
Central locking:
My 2002 Trekka 1.6 suddenly decided that the left rear door lock was going on
strike, the door would not lock/unlock from either the remote control or the
internal switch.
For your information the Kangoo has a facility thats prevents the LHR door
opening when the fuel cap is removed ( to stop the door sliding back and hitting
the fuel nozzle).
The device operates using a small magnet attached to a projection on the side of
the filler cap. When the cap is in place the magnet is positioned close to a
reed switch located behind the filler neck housing. The reed switch is
connected to small control unit located behind the left hand plastic side panel
under the parcel shelf/speaker supports in the luggage area.
So if your LHR door lock suddenly stops working but all the other locks work
fine......firstly check the magnet hasn't fallen off the filler cap.
Then suspect the reed switch or wiring loom to it. The wiring for the reed
switch goes from the top of the filler neck (under the wheel arch) and enters
the vehicle through a grommet which is visible by removing the LHR light
cluster.
The simple fix is to disconnect the wires to the reed switch at the control unit
(a black and a white wire) which fools the control unit into thinking the filler
cap is in place and restores the locking function to your LHR door. The down
side is that you have to ensure no one opens the LHR door when you are
refuelling.
The more complex fix is to pay Renault £91 plus for a new loom and reed switch,
or to go to an electronics component retailer and match up a similar reed switch
for a few pence.
Rear Suspension rattles:
On the Trekka rear suspension arms there are two plates rivetted on which secure
the brake hoses and ABS sensor wires. The plates often come loose because the
rivet heads corrode and brake off, you may then find there is a rattle when
driving over pot holes. The rivets can be drilled out and the plates can be
rivetted again but the same thing will happen if you use alloy rivets. So after
the third set of rivets failed on my vehicle I have now drilled the rivet holes
to 5mm and then tapped the holes with an M6 thread. I have used M6 stainless
steel bolts and this has proved very durable so far.
Hope these tips prove useful.
Richard